Those of you who have followed the blog for a while realize that I divide my time with many diverse activities. One is my public service with the City of Wooster, Division of Fire.
The last six months, I've been absorbed in both a budgetary and education battle to save six positions within our department, in jeopardy due to decreased municipal funding from the state level. The last couple of months, I've been increasingly busy working as a co-chair on a community campaign to educate our citizens to insure they are prepared for their opportunity to define their desired level of service within our community in the voters booth. Speaking at three to four community meetings a week and attending half as many committee meetings has been weighing heavily on me mentally, emotionally, and straining my little available time.
I am pleased to announce that the voters have decided to maintain our level of service and have passed an increase in our city's income tax, a positive outcome.
I am running about two weeks behind in the shop due to the temporary time constraints, for that I apologize, but the safety of our personnel and securing the jobs of six young families had to take priority.
I'll be working on completing the remaining April Luv Handle orders this week and will hopefully be back on track and current by the end of the month.
Thank you for allowing me the levity to re-prioritize for a bit, your sacrifice in receiving product a little later has had a significant impact on the community I choose to live in and work in.
Rody
Groovy Cycleworks 330-988-0537
Hand built custom frames with a dash of Funk!
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Saturday, May 4, 2013
Ohio Power Series Trophy
I am a big advocate of providing for grass roots racing opportunities.
Currently, we operate 12 mountain bike races each season, including the
state championships, with 100% of the profits put back into the local
cycling community. Aside from all the promotion and day of race time commitments, I took on an awards project for last seasons winners, to
be honoured at the first race of this year.
I wanted to make a kinda industrial/raw fabrication looking trophy that also honored our two largest sponsors; Monster Energy and Clif nutrition. Sounded cool, until I had to actually start fabricating 45 of these...what do I get myself into?
Anyway, had lots of fun with the guys who came out to share the pain. I hope they are well received...
I wanted to make a kinda industrial/raw fabrication looking trophy that also honored our two largest sponsors; Monster Energy and Clif nutrition. Sounded cool, until I had to actually start fabricating 45 of these...what do I get myself into?
Anyway, had lots of fun with the guys who came out to share the pain. I hope they are well received...
Friday, May 3, 2013
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
Carey's Camo ceramic....
I've been playing with ceramic the last few days and decided to really push the boundries of masking with the material and see just what can be done. Negative masking with paint is a fairly straight forward endeavor that gives the painter the opportunity to create multi-color features on a frame with ease. Negative masking tends to be more time consuming, uses more material, and carries the risk of knife marks in the protected layers during removing the masks than the use of positive masking and an airbrush.
I wanted to create a camo effect in ceramic. Normally, I would use positive masks and three airbrushes already loaded with colors to quickly move around the frame and fill in my camo. However, the ceramic is too thick for use in an airbrush, negative masking it is.
The hurdle with negative masking with ceramic is that once it begins to cure, it's like concrete, making removing the mask material quite a chore, impossible if you are not tuned into your temperature and cure times for detail work. I had to cure the layers long enough that placing masks on them would not cause visual damage, but not so much that I could not get the masks back up later.
Additionally, each time I cure off a layer, the one underneath will harden even more with the additional time at cure temperature. I had to create a tiered cure time table for the number of layers I wished to use so that at the end of the process, the first layer would be just at the maximum time for cure that would still allow me to get the masks up but the final layer would be stiff enough not to smudge during the removal process. Let me tell you, I'll not be looking forward to this complex of a ceramic finish again any time soon :)
The most difficult piece of the puzzle was the delicate masking that makes up the lower portion of my graphic, the frame model, and the owers name. As the layers go on, the thin masking gets buried and with the stiffness of the ceramic, is VERY difficult to remove. Careful Xacto knife skills are maditory. I'm not completely satisfied with the result, I've identified a few tweaks to use next time. For a first go, however, it's not too bad.
The advantage of this coating is that even with the multiple coats, it still builds less than the same visual finish in wet paint and is more durable. We've got a ways to go before I reach the true limit of this material on bicycles...I'm excited to see where we end up.
cheers,
rody
I wanted to create a camo effect in ceramic. Normally, I would use positive masks and three airbrushes already loaded with colors to quickly move around the frame and fill in my camo. However, the ceramic is too thick for use in an airbrush, negative masking it is.
The hurdle with negative masking with ceramic is that once it begins to cure, it's like concrete, making removing the mask material quite a chore, impossible if you are not tuned into your temperature and cure times for detail work. I had to cure the layers long enough that placing masks on them would not cause visual damage, but not so much that I could not get the masks back up later.
Additionally, each time I cure off a layer, the one underneath will harden even more with the additional time at cure temperature. I had to create a tiered cure time table for the number of layers I wished to use so that at the end of the process, the first layer would be just at the maximum time for cure that would still allow me to get the masks up but the final layer would be stiff enough not to smudge during the removal process. Let me tell you, I'll not be looking forward to this complex of a ceramic finish again any time soon :)
The most difficult piece of the puzzle was the delicate masking that makes up the lower portion of my graphic, the frame model, and the owers name. As the layers go on, the thin masking gets buried and with the stiffness of the ceramic, is VERY difficult to remove. Careful Xacto knife skills are maditory. I'm not completely satisfied with the result, I've identified a few tweaks to use next time. For a first go, however, it's not too bad.
The advantage of this coating is that even with the multiple coats, it still builds less than the same visual finish in wet paint and is more durable. We've got a ways to go before I reach the true limit of this material on bicycles...I'm excited to see where we end up.
cheers,
rody
Saturday, April 27, 2013
Cerakote and snakeskin...
Ok, so I've done snakeskin in liquid paint and sublimated powder, but combining such elaborate masking layers with ceramic is a new frontier for me. The Ti Zombie bike pushed the negative masking envelope, but this is a whole new ball game.
The difficulty being this...the masks must be removed before the cerakote is fully cured, leaving the finish subject to smuding and smearing.
The frame starts off with a trip through the blast cabine, getting an nice even finish.
The frame then goes through a solvent bath and is put into the bake box to insure it is fully dry and all solvents are fumed off.
The frame then gets a coat of graphite black ceramic, is baked to a partial cure, and the first layer of masks are applied.
To create the snake skin effect, an expanded net fabric is cut to just shy of the diameter of each tube, then stretched tight and secured in place.
Hours later, the entire frame is enclosed in the pattern. It is imperative that it is secured and will not move or the finish will be scrapped and we'll begin again.
A blue titanium is mixed to provide a flat appearance and is sprayed over the entire frame. Sand grey and bright white are then sprayed to provide a little contrast and visual diversity.
Everything goes into the bake box for a partial cure and then gets yanked out for a quick undressing.
A cool finish, but very tedious.
cheers,
rody
The difficulty being this...the masks must be removed before the cerakote is fully cured, leaving the finish subject to smuding and smearing.
The frame starts off with a trip through the blast cabine, getting an nice even finish.
The frame then goes through a solvent bath and is put into the bake box to insure it is fully dry and all solvents are fumed off.
The frame then gets a coat of graphite black ceramic, is baked to a partial cure, and the first layer of masks are applied.
To create the snake skin effect, an expanded net fabric is cut to just shy of the diameter of each tube, then stretched tight and secured in place.
Hours later, the entire frame is enclosed in the pattern. It is imperative that it is secured and will not move or the finish will be scrapped and we'll begin again.
A blue titanium is mixed to provide a flat appearance and is sprayed over the entire frame. Sand grey and bright white are then sprayed to provide a little contrast and visual diversity.
Everything goes into the bake box for a partial cure and then gets yanked out for a quick undressing.
The material is carefully removed, lifting directly vertical to prevent smearing of the still soft ceramic. Negative decal masks are then carefully lifted with an Xacto Knife.
A cool finish, but very tedious.
cheers,
rody
Monday, April 15, 2013
Back from vacation and at it...
Thanks to all for your patience while I took some time off. As of today, I'm officially back in the shop and trying to get caught up and will be sorting through the voice and emails.
So, with the beautiful beach sunset in the rearview mirror, this is what's been shaking...
...amidst all the office stuff, I did a quick frame prep for a local shop. Ya know, ream and face the head tube, chase and face the bottom bracket, and install the pieces parts. I took some time to make a tool that I've been needing, but had not made the time to this point.
With the changing "standards" in headsets, bottom brackets, axles, etc... shops constantly need to update their tool inventory, and that gets spendy. Since I'm cheap, I tend to make a lot of the tools I need, that way when the next "standard" comes out and the previous year's hottie goes into the back of the tool chest, I don't feel so bad.
So here's todays tool...a 1.500" fork crown setter.
This started off as a couple of pieces of chromoly tube and a 8.00" x 8.000" x .375" plate. The square plate was cut to size, welded to the tube and then thrown into the lathe where it was turned, faced, and then bored and relieved to match the spec of the Chris King base plates.
The fork plate sits snugly on the bottom face of the press...
while on top a solid piece of 6061 aluminum was turned to allow a press fit into the top of the tube for a solid surface to hammer against.
I'll throw it into the queue for a little ceramic finishing to keep it looking nice and fresh.
cheers,
rody
So, with the beautiful beach sunset in the rearview mirror, this is what's been shaking...
...amidst all the office stuff, I did a quick frame prep for a local shop. Ya know, ream and face the head tube, chase and face the bottom bracket, and install the pieces parts. I took some time to make a tool that I've been needing, but had not made the time to this point.
With the changing "standards" in headsets, bottom brackets, axles, etc... shops constantly need to update their tool inventory, and that gets spendy. Since I'm cheap, I tend to make a lot of the tools I need, that way when the next "standard" comes out and the previous year's hottie goes into the back of the tool chest, I don't feel so bad.
So here's todays tool...a 1.500" fork crown setter.
This started off as a couple of pieces of chromoly tube and a 8.00" x 8.000" x .375" plate. The square plate was cut to size, welded to the tube and then thrown into the lathe where it was turned, faced, and then bored and relieved to match the spec of the Chris King base plates.
The fork plate sits snugly on the bottom face of the press...
while on top a solid piece of 6061 aluminum was turned to allow a press fit into the top of the tube for a solid surface to hammer against.
I'll throw it into the queue for a little ceramic finishing to keep it looking nice and fresh.
cheers,
rody
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)






